Shopping Cart: 0 items Whistle a Happy Ski Tune
Picture this: You’re skiing down a slope, and suddenly you reach a relatively flat section. “No problem,” you think. “I’ll just point my skis straight down and go full speed ahead.” Unfortunately, that doesn’t happen. You assume the tuck position, pole like crazy, but your skis aren’t going anywhere. It’s time to get your skis tuned!
While many people don’t think twice about getting frequent tune up for their cars, some tend to be negligent about their ski equipment. However, just as an automobile tune-up makes for a more efficient ride, a well-tuned ski provides smooth gliding down the mountain in any weather or snow conditions.
There are a number or situations that might necessitate getting your skis tuned. If you ski either in early season or late season, your boards are no doubt having uncomfortably close encounters with rocks. If you flip your skis over, you will probably notice some unsightly gouges. Perhaps the bases are a bit dry. Maybe they have lost their shine. Time to get out the ski wax! Now let’s take a look at the edges of your skis. Slide your fingers down the edges. If they are burred and dull, you will need to have them sharpened. In some cases, your skis may have become concave. This will make them less maneuverable.
Extreme cold or extreme warm conditions may create a need for a different type of ski wax. Additionally, skiers who have frequent access to the mountains generally have their skis tuned every five to seven ski days. Intermediates usually have their skis tuned every eight to twelve ski days. However, the average snow conditions will also influence how often your skis will need to be tuned. Soft powder conditions require less need for tuning, whereas ice or Eastern hard pack might necessitate frequent tunes.
How to Choose Ski Wax
The following scenario is common amongst skiers. Picture this: In September, you went skiing in Portillo, Chile. It was late season in South America, and temperatures were averaging at 50 degrees Fahrenheit. While at the resort, you had your skis waxed and tuned. You don’t go skiing again until December of that year. This time it’s Breckenridge, Colorado, on one of the coldest days of the year. In fact, the temperatures are plunging below zero! While taking your daughter down Silverthorne, a flat and easy trail, you notice that you are doing an awful lot of poling. In fact, your upper body is working a whole lot harder than your lower body. Where is the glide? Where is the love?
Although you might be tempted to believe that between September and December, you have forgotten how to ski, rest assured that this is probably not the case. Here’s what probably happened. While in Portillo, the tuning shop probably applied a warm weather wax to your skis. Warm weather ski waxes are most suitable snow temperatures of 28 degrees Fahrenheit or -2 degrees Celsius and above. These softer waxes are composed of a mix of paraffin and silicone. In order to make these waxes water-repellent, hydrophobic additives are used. Warm weather wax is known for its ability to neutralize the effects of wet friction.
Once you arrived in Breckenridge, or any other colder resort, your skis probably needed a cold weather ski wax. This type of wax is preferable for snow temperatures of approximately 10 degrees Fahrenheit or -12 degrees Celsius and below. Cold weather ski wax is composed of a mix of paraffin and synthetic paraffins because of the hardening agents that have been added to the mixture, this type of wax has a harder texture than cold weather or all-weather wax. This important hardening agent contributes to the durability of the wax, which in turn makes it resistant to the abrasions from sharp snow crystals found in colder ski areas. The Swix F4 Ski and Snowboard Wax will work for these conditions.
If you are only an occasional skier who usually skis in temperatures between 10 and 28 degrees Fahrenheit, a midrange ski wax will suffice for your needs. These ski waxes are capable of neutralizing the adverse effects of both dry and wet friction.
Wax and Wane
Picture this: You’re skiing down a relatively flat trail. You point your skis down the hill and assume the skiers tuck position. While you expect to pick up some speed, your pace is similar to that of a turtle. You pole, and you pole, but nothing happens. I think you need a wax job. No, not your legs, silly. You need to wax your skis. The waxing process involves applying a lubricant to the bases of your skis. This allows enables them to glide with grace. Professional ski waxing requires a waxing iron, which can be found on skis.com. Check out the Dakine Tuning Iron:
Make certain that your tuning iron is set at the appropriate temperature. An overheated iron might ruin the bases of your skis.
Step One: Use a base brush to get rid of any excess debris.
Step Two: Use swix base cleaner to clean the base of your skis.
Step Three: Heat your iron to low temperature.
Step Four: Apply a base coat to the base of the skis.
Step Five: Use a plastic spraper to remove wax after it cools down.
Step Six: Use a nylon brush, such as the swix oval brush to smooth out surface.
The Language of Ski Tuning
Here’s a scary help wanted ad that can sometimes be found in the local newspaper of a Colorado ski town: “Ski Gear Techs Wanted : No Experience Necessary.”
These are the folks who might end up working on your skis. If you have developed an intimate love for your, boards, you might want to be the only one to touch them. Fortunately, skis.com has nice selection of ski tuning tools. However, in order to understand the ski tuning process, it helps to understand the unique language of ski tuning. Here are some of the most common terms you might find when discussing ski tuning.
Base Flattening : Base flattening will level your bases and remove gouges. If your skis are not maintaining continuous contact with the snow, a base flattening might be just what the ski doctor ordered. Base flattening is performed with at the ski shop with a stone grinder.
Beveling : The term “beveling” is used when referring to the angle from the base of the ski to the ski edge. By increasing this angle, you will find it easier to get on your edges at the initiation of a turn. An inability to grip the snow often indicates a decreased angle. The base edge bevel is the angle at the bottom of the ski’s edge. In contrast, the side edge bevel is the angle at the side of the ski’s edge.
Burrs : No, this has nothing to do with what you say when the lift stops at the coldest, windiest part of the mountain. The word “burrs “refers to those unsightly little nicks or jagged sections on the ski's edges. They often happen in early or late season, as the result of an unfortunate encounter with a rock. This is a good reason to have an old pair of skis for your rock skis, and treat yourself to a new pair of skis from skis.com. So how do you know if your skis have burrs? Are you feeling a bit sloppy in your turn initiation? Do you have trouble holding a straight line on cat tracks? Check for burrs. Take a look at the Swix Fibertex Combi Deburring Pad.
De-Tuning : What does it mean if your skis are de-tuned does it mean that they ski out of key? Not exactly. De-tuning refers to the process of dulling your skis edges at the tip and tail. It is performed as a means of reducing the ski’s tendency to grab the snow in the middle of a turn, commonly known as “catching an edge.”
Ski Tuning Tools of the Trade
Ski tuning is an art, and every artisan needs a good set of tools.
Diamond Stones: Diamond stones are used to de-burr the bases and edges of your skis. If needed, a diamond stone can also be used to sharpen your edges. Take a look at the Swix Universal Performance Diamond Stone.
Hydrocarbon Wax: Hydrocarbon wax helps keep your skis healthy, smooth and slick. Skis.com has an extensive collection of hydrocarbon waxes.
Plastic Scraper: A plastic scraper is used after hot waxing. It is used to scrape away the excess wax. A plastic scraper is included in the One Ball Jay Pirate Pro Tuning Kit.
Ptex Candle: If your bases have had too many gouges, you can fill them in with a Ptex candle, such as the Swix P-Tex Transparent. After you are finished, use a steel scraper to wipe away the excess Ptex.
Emery File: When you have finished sharpening your edges, polish them with an emery file to make them glisten. Swix has the perfect diamond coarse file.
Cork: Cork is used to rub the wax into the bases. It comes in handy when you are traveling, and do not have a waxing iron. Skis.com has a multitude of cork products:
Iron: Waxing irons are used for the application of ski wax. The Swix Consumer Iron is small enough to pack for travel.
If you plan to occasionally tune your own skis, check out the well-priced tuning kits on skis.com.
Base Edge Tuning
While many recreational skiers believe that you do not need to tune a new ski, serious skiers will often give their skis a tune before taking them out to play in the snow. That said, some ultra-serious skiers believe that even if you don’t want to tune your skis prior to taking them out, you should wax them a few times prior to introducing them to the snow.
Once you have decided to tune your own skis, it is important to follow the manufacturer's specifications. Keep in mind that your base edge need not need be sharpened too often. In fact, excessive base edge tuning might result in skis that are referred to as base high. This means that even if the skis are flat, the edges will not touch the snow.
Start by using a plastic scraper to scrape off any excess wax. Now, wipe the ski clean with a rag. Next, you will want to use your side edge bevel to remove any unwanted burrs. Most skiers like to start with a course stone, and then gradually work down to a finer stone. Continue until the burrs disappear. Now, put your ski into a vice, such as the Swix s Piece Vice.
The base should face away from you. Put your file into a base bevel edge guide. The tail should face up and away from you. Hold the guide on the base and pull it towards you. Try to use long and even strokes down the entire length of the ski. Only a few strokes will be needed.
Side Edge Tuning
Ski tuning experts suggest that once or twice throughout the ski season, you strip the sidewalls of your skis. This will give you better access to your edges. When you have completed stripping the sidewalls, remove rust and burrs by using your file guide and diamond stone. Wet the side edge with the same water and alcohol solution that you used for your base edges. Then, place your diamond stone on the side edge file guide. Allow the smooth surface of the guide to run along the base of your skis, and the stone to sit on the top side of the guide.
When you have removed the burrs from your edges, you can begin to use your file. Start by placing the file on the guide. The tail should point away from you. Many experts suggest that you angle the file on the guide. Use your stronger hand to pull the file guide along the ski. Make sure that you use smooth and even strokes. This process simultaneously removes material and sharpens your edges. After you have made your initial strokes with your main file, switch to a second cut file. Use a fine touch to remove any burrs that were not removed by your other file. When your ski’s edge feels sharp enough to cut you, your job is done. Keep in mind that if you have not tuned your skis for awhile, your ski edges will become round. This takes time to correct, so be patient in the tuning process. In some cases, you might be able to contact the skis manufacturer to learn their suggested specs for tuning your skis. The Swix Edger Pro is the perfect side-edge tuning tool.
