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There is a common misconception in the marketplace that there is a best brand or model ski that will work for everyone. This isn't true, but every major brand has a make or model that can be the right ski for the right person. There are a few simple steps to follow when selecting the right ski. These will help narrow down your choices, provided that you work through each step honestly.
- - Video Tutorial: The Differences Between Shaped Skis and Straight Skis
- - Video Tutorial: The Differences Between Men's and Women's Skis
- - Video Tutorial: How to Select a Twin Tip Ski
When searching for the right ski, there are a set of questions to start off with: “How long have you skied?” and “Where have you skied?” Based on these answers, the next questions are whether or not you like to ski slow, medium or fast, and if you like to make wide, open turns, or quick, snappy ones. Finally, the last question is where you like to spend the majority of your time skiing, from beginner, intermediate and expert trails to mogul runs or even out of bounds. Keep these questions in mind while going through the steps of finding the right ski.
Step one is picking the type of ski you want. There are many different divisions that are used to describe skis. Many can be very confusing but there are only a few categories you really need to understand.
First off, downhill skis are known as Alpine skis – they consist of a fixed boot, binding and the ski itself. Nordic skis, where the heel releases from the ski binding, make up the other class of skis and include both cross-country and telemark skis. The following categories divide up the Alpine ski family. All can be further divided into men’s, women’s and junior groupings.
All-Mountain: Most Alpine skis fall into this category. Because the majority of skiers don’t have the luxury of lugging around several sets of skis to match that day’s conditions, All-Mountain skis are designed to perform in all types of snow conditions and at most speeds. Narrower All-Mountain skis are better for groomed runs, while wider styles handle better in powder and cruddy conditions. Other names for this style of ski include Mid-Fat skis, All-Purpose skis, and the One-ski Quiver.
Powder: Designed to float atop powder, these are a popular back up pair of skis for those lucky enough to live in or visit places like Utah that receive frequent major storms. The mega-wide waist widths – ranging from 105mm to 130mm – keep the skis from sinking deep into fresh snow, but they can be challenging and sluggish to control on groomed runs. Sometimes they are known as Backcountry or Big Mountain skis.
Twin Tip: Twin tip skis have a curved-up tail along with the standard curved-up tip. Originally, Twin Tips were most popular with the freestyle set, and were used to take off or land jumps backward. Nowadays Twin Tips are also available as All-Mountain skis, though most are actually “direction twins” – slightly longer and wider in the front.
Racing: Typically stiffer, longer and narrower than the average ski. Most race skiers know what they want, so there’s no point in going to deep here besides noting that if you’re not a racer, don’t even consider racing skis. Sometimes they are known as Slalom or GS skis.
Video Tutorial: How to Select the Right Ski
After determining the right style of ski, the next important step is determining which one is right for your skill level. A ski built for all skill levels simply does not exist, so it’s vital that you buy a ski matching your ability. Picking a ski that’s either above or below your level will seriously impede your ability to get better. Advanced level skis are stiffer and require more technique, but they respond quicker; they also need to be skied at higher speeds to make them turn. Conversely, beginner to intermediate skis are softer and more forgiving, making them easier to initiate a turn at slower speeds with less technique; at high speeds, however, they can create a lot of chatter, making them hard to control.
There are six different levels of skiing ability that you may be classified under. From lowest to highest, the levels are Beginner, Advanced Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced Intermediate, Advanced, and Expert. The key is to pick a range that you are comfortable with, but one that you can also improve with.
Beginner: This is level for skiers who are just beginning their skiing career. The skier has either never skied before or has skied only a few times.
Advanced Beginner: When a skier is comfortable on the green runs (beginner runs) and is moving up to blue runs.
Intermediate: The comfort level is on groomed blue runs that can be skied with relative ease.
Advanced Intermediate: The skier is moving up to black diamonds and other terrain.
Advanced: Black diamonds and other terrain are comfortable.
Expert: All terrain including powder, out of bounds, moguls, etc. are skied with ease.
The key is to pick a range that you are comfortable with, but one you can also improve with, unless of course you are an expert. If you are most comfortable skiing groomed, blue runs, then classify yourself as an Intermediate. That doesn’t mean, however, that a ski rated Beginner to Intermediate is a good fit. Instead, look for a pair with your level at the lowest part of the range – an Intermediate to Advanced, in this case – this way you can improve with your ski. There is no advantage to buying a ski that is significantly better than you. More advanced skis must be “loaded up,” meaning you really need to get some speed and weight into them to get them to carve. But if you can’t get the right speed and pressure, the skis will be difficult to control.
A result of a ski’s sidecut, the turning radius equals the natural circle that a pair of skis makes on edge when your weight is properly applied. It’s the same idea behind the turning radius of a car; a tiny sports car can whip tight donut shapes, while a large truck needs far greater space to turn a full circle.
With skis, the turning radius can range from a low of 11m all the way up to 25m. This figure is often printed on the skis themselves. If you like quick, snappy turns, look for a turning radius in the 12–16m range. If you prefer making big, wide-open turns, then look for a turning radius of 16–22m. If the turning radius isn’t given, then look at a ski’s dimensions, which measure the sidecut widths at the tip, waist and tail. They’ll look something like 128/86/114. The bigger the difference between the waist of a ski and its tip and tail – i.e., the more dramatic the hourglass shape – the tighter the turning radius will be.
Video Tutorial: The Dimensions and Turning Radius of a Ski
While sorting through skis, you’ll notice many come with bindings attached. These are known as integrated bindings, as they are built into and are a part of the skis themselves. (You might also see these set-ups called system skis.) So, what set-up should you chose? Unless you’re an experienced racer or freestyle skier with specific binding needs, integrated bindings are highly recommended.
Before the advent of shaped skis, integrated bindings didn’t exist. But with flex being key to the functionality of shaped skis, they have quickly become an industry standard. Think about it this way: When you drill a regular binding into a ski and drop in the boot, you end up with shaped ski that flexes above and below the binding zone, but not within in. This is a dead zone, like skiing with a metal rod in the middle of your skis. Once manufactures realized that shaped skis weren’t performing to their potential due to this boot/binding combination, they created integrated bindings that “float” on top the ski. The bindings do this by moving back and forth as the ski flexes, keeping constant pressure on your boots to hold you in. The end result is that integrated bindings give skiers the full benefit of a shaped ski’s potential.
Video Tutorial: The Purpose for Integrated Bindings
With the advent of shaped skis, the typical length of skis has changed. Years ago, skis for men stretched from 175cm to 205cm and beyond. But now close to 80 percent of men’s skis fall in the 155–175cm range and the majority of women’s ski fall into the 140–160cm range. This is because the hourglass shape of the ski allows for a shorter ski with a wider and larger surface area. Although they are shorter, they are just as fast, turn better, and are more stable due to shape, new materials, and better flex patterns.
As a general rule, a ski should reach up to the chin for beginners, the nose for intermediates, and the forehead (and above) for advanced skiers. Although this is the general rule, there are some exceptions. Heavier skiers need a longer ski, while lighter skiers can go a bit shorter. And as overall length and speed are compatible, there’s a similar dynamic for skiing style: If you like to ski fast with wide turns, then go longer, but if you’re a mellower skier who enjoys quicker turns, go shorter.
Typically you will want to get as much length as you’re comfortable with for your ability, as it gives you more ski on which to learn to carve. But if you feel a chosen ski ought to be shorter, then it probably should be. There’s no point in choosing a ski length you’re not comfortable with, as you’ll never maximize its potential. If you’re going to lean one way or another, err on the shorter side.
Video Tutorial: How to Select the Correct Size Skis
It is our commitment to provide you with the most complete, accurate, and thorough information possible to help you make an informed decision. We encourage you to check out these additional pieces of media to help guide you to the best skis for you.
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